Rock Equipment for Sale!

Paypal, cash or money order ONLY!

E-mail me at the address below IF YOU ARE INTERESTED!

ELECTRIC MOTORS

Priced as below. Come and pick them up (Oregon City, OR) or I will ship Flat Rate Priority mail ($15) if possible.

I have 7 used motors for sale. They all were on rock saws that I purchased and were replaced for various reasons, the #1 reason being that I converted all of my big saws to dual-phase 220 VAC. They were all in working condition the last time I used them. In general, saws can be run on most motors from 1/6 - 2 HP, depending on the blade size, feed rate, blade rim speed, etc. From my experience a trim saw requires very litttle torque and thus can be run on as little as 1/6 HP motor, but a bigger motor is just fine (to a point LOL). The 1/3 HP motors below can comfortable run any saw up to about 14" blade. For anything 16" and larger I use 1/3 - 1-1/2 or even 2 HP motors, 1/2 HP being overkill on the lower end and 2 HP a little more than a 36" saw requires. It is always better to use a larger motor than the saw came with. In my experience manufactures UNDERPOWER their saws to save a few bucks and you're stuck with a motor that quite possibly will burn up at some point or worse yet stall and burn though the belt. If someone replaced the motor then they almost always use the same or a smaller motor, unless they know their stuff.

I make no guarantees that they will work for you, since a lot depends on how you wire them.They all worked last time I used them. If you don't know how to wire an electric motor then you shouldn't be buying them, since incorrectly wiring a 110 (or worse, a 220) volt motor can potentially kill the motor, screw up your wiring panel, blow circuit breakers, injure you, or start a fire.

If two voltage ratings are shown then the motor can be wired for single phase 110/115/120 or dual phase 220/230/240 volt circuts. Dual phase wiring is for EXPERIENCED people only as it involves setting up a separate circut on your panel. It is a good thing for electric motors because 220V requires less amperage on motor startup and uses less power overall. I have a few spare power cords so let me know if you want one.

MOTORS 2 (TOP), 1 (MIDDLE) SOLD, AND 5 (BOTTOM)

MOTORS 3 (TOP), 4 (MIDDLE) SOLD, AND 6 (BOTTOM)

MOTOR 7

E-mail me at the address below IF YOU ARE INTERESTED!

ROCK RASCAL MODEL J 6" TRIM SAW Complete Setup - $200

SOLD!

Pickup ONLY in Oregon City, OR - it's too big to ship for any reasonable rate

This is a NICE little trim saw setup, on one base, complete, with motor, lamp and vise, just plug it in and GO. Please don't offer less than the listed price, I can sell this locally in a heartbeat for the listed price. I won't trade for anything, I have more rock and equipment than I can fit into my shop! I added a new Crystalite thin kerf blade (the Cadillac of small rock saw blades, IMO), a barely-used 1/3 HP motor (way overkill so it will NEVER burn out or stall), heavy duty cogged belt, and completely rewired it. There is even an extra outlet for your enjoyment :) This is a great saw for trimming small slabs, cutting small rough, especially rough that you don't want to waste too much of, i.e. opal, fire agate, quartz crystals, gemstones, etc. If you want to trim larger pieces, just buy a thicker blade, Meteor blades this size are cheap and are a decent blade. Again the Crystalite standard kerf blades are the top of the line. These list for $300 and up NEW with an underpowered motor, an undersized base and without a vise which is an extra $26. That is rather stupid.

E-mail me at the address below IF YOU ARE INTERESTED!

POLY 10" WET GRINDER Complete Setup - $100

SOLD!

Pickup ONLY Oregon City, OR - it's too big to ship for any reasonable rate

I am giving this away since it's taking up a lot of room on my workbench and I am not using it much anymore. Please don't offer less than the listed price, I can sell this locally in a heartbeat for the listed price. I won't trade for anything, I have more rock and equipment than I can fit into my shop! It is set up for wet grinding with a coarse and medium silicon carbide wheel, cab rest, water valves and drain. All you need to do is mount it to your bench and hook up a water line with poly tubing and a couple of compression fittings, and slip some tubing over the drain. I mounted mine in front of a screwed down 2x4 which keeps the belt tensioned. You will want to dress the wheels before you use it since they are out of balance (you periodically need to do this with all wet grinders). The cab rest isn't shown in the pics below.

E-mail me at the address below IF YOU ARE INTERESTED!

GRAVES CABMATE - $150 SOLD!

The Cabmate is a cabbing machine, I picked it up with some other equipment and don't have a use for it so here it is! basically you put a cab on the dop stick and use one of a bunch of cams to preform it into quite a few different shapes, such as rectangular, round, oval, triangular, trapezoid, and several other interesting shapes. Then you can take the dop stick out of the jig and dome your cab. It has a rough grit wheel for the preforming and shaping, you can get other wheels for grinding the cab to a prepolish stage, then polish on a polishing wheel. It has a "quick release" nut for easliy changing wheels. It is in working condition and comes with all the cams, and the motor operates at both low and high speed. It's water cooled from a reservoir tank. I can ship this parcel post (it's too big for flat rate priority mail).

18" FRANTOM ROCK SAW IN PERFECT CONDITION - $950 FIRM

SOLD!

I am sad to see this one go but I need the room in my shop, 5 big saws is one too many! Please don't offer less than the listed price, I can sell this locally in a heartbeat for the listed price. I won't trade for anything, I have more rock and equipment than I can fit into my shop! I wanted online rockhounds to have a chance at the saw since I know how hard used saws in top condition are to find. All of my saws were bought used and none of them were in great shape. This saw has been tricked out beyond belief, I have been tweaking it for years now and I have it to where it functions better than the original design (a LOT better). Think HOT ROD LOL! I have one meteor blade for it that has a good amount of diamond left. It is set up for a MK Diamond MK-303 Pro, the Cadillac of large lapidary blades. These are $$$ so if you want it too I will have to think about how much to add to the price, they last forever so there is no visible wear on the blade. They run best at a little faster speed than the standard blades, so if you use a Meteor or similar blade you might want to slow it down some by changing to a larger pulley on the arbor or a smaller pulley on the motor. They can be had for a few bucks online or at a good hardware store.

Features and Modifications include:

• Added a 3/4 HP 110/220 VAC motor, automatic overload protection in case it gets too hot, low hours and in great shape. Wired for 220 VAC so you have to change to a standard grounded power cord and rewire the motor for a standard 110V circuit (replace the cord and change two connections, not a big deal, instructions are on the motor). This motor is overkill like all mine are which is never a bad thing, most saws are WAY underpowered. I think these originally came with a 1/3 or 1/2 HP 110 VAC motor.

• All new heavy duty pulleys and cogged belts. They resist slipping and the pulleys won't warp, crack, or worse yet blow apart like the cheap die cast ones.

• Completely leakproofed. All bolts & screws sealed with neoprene washers. Drain cap seals tight, so no leakage through the threads. I Added new bolts where the old ones were showing wear. Weatherstripping on the sides of the lid to reduce oil dripping on the floor. You can NEVER stop these saws from dripping some oil, they are infamous for dripping oil out over the lip of the cabinet. The seal around the window goes first so I epoxied all around it to reduce leakage. I was told a long time ago by a very experienced lapidary that "windows are for beginners" and he is right on. If you need to see what your saw is doing then you aren't cutting right and the saw needs to be adjusted, blade sharpened, etc.

• ALL rust removed, painted and clear coated to resist any further rusting.

• Added a heavy duty oilproofed plywood base on casters so you can roll it around. Believe me this is incredibly convenient.

• New heavy duty switch and pull chain apparatus. I hate cheap switches, half the time they don't turn off and you wind up spewing oil all over yourself when you open the lid (spoken from experience!).

• Arbor perfectly aligned to the vise (this is the bane of used saws and the #1 reason why they don't cut straight, leave saw marks, or jam up). Arbor and feed bearings have been consistently lubricated so they are in great shape. New blade washer to resist wobbling (most used saws don't even have a blade washer!).

• New splash guard to avoid spewing oil all over the inside of the cabinet. Most used saws don't have the splash guard anymore since inexperienced lapidaries tend to cut them off with the blade!

• Improved feed gearing, bearings, etc. on the feed apparatus. Changed pulleys and added new heavy duty cogged belts so the feed runs very fast at the fastest setting for soft rock like obsidian (it is a 3 speed feed system), and at a good rate for hard stuff like picture jasper or very hard agate on the slowest setting. I hate the way manufacturers gear the saw to feed so slow that waiting for a decent sized rock to be slabbed is like watching paint dry. If you watch what you are doing you won't jam up the rock even at insanely fast feed rates, as long as your blade is in VERY GOOD condition. If you let it dull or dish out you will jam the saw constantly until you fix the blade.

• Replaced the "landing pad" for the slabs. Good oversized plywood inserts in the vise to better grip your rough. Remachined vise clamp. I insert a leather strip to better grip the feed screw and allow for slipping if something bad happens during the cut. These tend to wear down and you can just cut a new one out of scrap leather in that case. The bronze clamps on the Frantoms tend to wear rather fast and remachining one like I did isn't exactly easy.

E-mail me at the address below IF YOU ARE INTERESTED!

TO EMAIL ME: Type the email address above into your email program. The last character is the number one, not an I. Please note: My email address has changed as of Jan 2010 to once again evade the spammers.  The old email address was inactivated soon thereafter so don't use it anymore as I will NOT get your email!

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