Equipment Currently For Sale
14" Cabinet Drop Saw COMING SOON
Diamond Pacific Genie 6 Wheel Cabochon Unit COMING SOON
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For those of you who are looking for something specific in my for sale pages, such as when I list refurbished equipment, I might have a solution for you. You may want to try this: https://www.changedetection.com, I think all you do is sign up and enter the address of the page, for example if you are looking for equipment enter http://orerockon.com/equipment_for_sale.html, and they should send you an email when I add something. BUT, it probably will send you a notice when I change one letter of one sentence on the page, so you might get annoyed by it at some point. It's a great way to track when I list new polished items or refurbished equipment, since I typically don't change anything until something sells and/or I add items, and equipment, which I never change unless I add new pieces or change the status to "sold" as they sell.
ALL of the equipment I sell is used, and restored to perfect working condition. I don't believe in selling "you fix it" machines so I refuse to do it. Every piece is completely disassembled, sanded to remove all traces of rust and loose paint, primed, painted and clearcoated. I uses epoxy paint on heavily used surfaces. I check every part, lubricate bearings etc., and replace parts as necessary. I update components that are worn or out of date, and occasionally tweak the machines so they perform better than they did out of the factory. All pieces come with working motors and I always update the electrical components to make them safe and reliable. If you need any supplies to run the machines or they require additional setup, I tell you that and give recommendations. I don't leave it up to you to guess like the online sellers. I price everything to move as fast as possible, in other words I don't put a sky high price on them and hope for some sucker to bite. I charge what completely restored, used equipment is worth and no more. I can ship smaller machines but most are pickup at the shop, I am near Oregon City, OR.
My equipment usually sells FAST so if it says SOLD, it means SOLD. I won't answer emails inquiring about equipment that says SOLD. Check back often for more listings. If you are not intending to buy any equipment from me, please don't ask questions about anything listed on this page, your saw, your buddy's saw, any other lapidary equipment, etc. I simply don't have the time to answer questions about someone else's equipment. That's what email lists are for (hint: Google "rockhounds email list"). That's also what rock & gem clubs are for - join your local club! You can pay through the Paypal cart buttons on the page, money order, or cashier's check, and if you pick up your equipment here at the shop I can accept credit and debit cards, cash, money orders, and cashier's checks. S&H & insurance not included. Will ship some items via USPS Priority Mail (if it fits in a flat rate box) larger items via USPS standard mail, or you can come get it (strongly preferred!). I am in Oregon City, Oregon 97045. E-mail me at the address at the bottom of the page if you have any questions!
ALL OF YOUR QUESTIONS ARE ANSEWERED HERE. I will not, under any circumstances, ship anything international. The rates are now ridiculous as of the 1/27/13 price increase, and I've had enough of boxes going missing on the receiving end. If you aren't a US citizen and you can give me a US address to ship to that's OK. By ordering from this site you are agreeing to all the stated policies on the linked page.
This is an old version of the Johnson Bros. PF-10 10" Preformer drop saw. For all I know it was the prototype :) Completely refurbished, mostly original parts. Arbor shaft runs like new, has excellent sealed bearings. Very good continuous rim thin kerf blade (saves a lot of material), epoxy painted table, heavy duty cogged belt, original motor in excellent condition, new vise and rip fence (on order). Original pump and new valve and coolant supply lines. 3 original and one homemade (under the belt) splash shields. Mounted on a sturdy 2x6" lumber base (a plywood base would be too cumbersome). All new grounded wiring and 2 convenient switches for the saw and pump. Use this to trib slabs and thick cut specimens, and slice small to medium sized rough. All you do is mount your piece in the vise, turn it on, turn on the pump, drop the blade carefully onto the piece and let the saw do the work. The fence allows you to run a slab through straight. The second photo shows how to operate the pump. Place a large bucket with at least 2 gallons of coolant on the floor, drop in the pump, turn it on and open the valve over the blade. Put the drain hose in the bucket to recirculate the coolant. You will have to prime the pump if you had drained it (which you should do) by turning the pump on, and holding the bucket over the saw until it starts dripping onto the blade. I am not one to use water as a coolant unless it is absolutely necessary, but all drop saws produce some overspray due to their design. You can minimize this by adjusting the valve so just enough coolant drips onto it to lubricate the cut (so the blade is always lubricated and doesn't run dry which will ruin it). I use food grade non-toxic coolant oil for every saw I own and if you do, you will have very little maintenance to do. But you can use water and not hurt the saw IF you take care of it. This was sold to me as "broke" but it was in near perfect condition. The owner had apparently NEVER cleaned the body, pan, or water lines so it simply was too clogged with gunk to function. So if do do use water you MUST periodically spray down the inside of the cabinet to remove the residue (unscrew the three large screws holding it down), and always run clean water through the lines when you are finished (they will clog with sediment and the pump will be rendered useless), and completely drain the pan. You MUST use an additive such as Lube-Cool to minimize rust and corrosion. If you're putting it away for a while I recommend spraying down the pan, arbor, and blade with a rust inhibitor or WD40 (less effective) to minimize corrosion.
Completely restored, very good 1/4 HP motor, inline on/off switch, heavy duty cogged belt, splash shield, and all new wiring. NEW vise (on order). On a sturdy plywood base. Very nice MK Diamond 303 continuous rim thin kerf blade, cuts thin to save a lot of material. Use this to trim slabs for cabochons or intarsia, and cut small pieces (I like to cut mini-thunderegg "thunderenuts"). You supply the oil lubricant (it can be used with water but I wouldn't use water with anything that doesn't require it). If you do use water, use an anti-corrosion additive such as Lube-Cool and drain it when you're finished for the day (otherwise the blade and shaft WILL eventually rust). I can ship this USPS parcel post or UPS, your choice (count on at least $100 postage + materials for a crate).
Completely restored, very good 1/4 HP motor, inline on/off switch, near-new belt, splash shield, and all new wiring. On a sturdy plywood base, complete with original water inlet line and drain hose. New vise and tool rest for the grinder (on order). Basically untouched 8" segmented rim diamond blade. Use this to trim slabs for cabochons or intarsia, and cut small pieces (I like to cut mini-thundereggs "thunderenuts"). The grinding wheel is water cooled, it comes with a virtually untouched new 6" 80 grit silicon carbide wheel and a NEW 6" 200 grit wheel (not shown). The water system is original to the machine and is a drip system. You need a bucket or container set above the level of the pan that has a drain fitting at the bottom. You can get plastic "barb" fittings at any hardware store, drill or cut out a hole in the bottom or side of the container barely larger than the fitting and shove that sucker in there (use a sealant to make it watertight, a small tube is all you need). Then push the tubing onto the barb for a watertight fit, and set another bucket on the floor and run the drain hose to it.
Seriously, I think this machine was used for about an hour and forgotten (the owner did scribble his initials on the back of the hood, I suppose so he could remember it was still his in 10 years :) Because it uses water, you MUST add an anti-corrosion additive such as Lube-Cool and drain it when you're finished (I have pics of saws and grinders that used water with no additives and were rarely if ever cleaned or drained. They are horrific, and didn't function properly). I can ship this USPS parcel post or UPS, your choice (count on at least $100 postage + materials for a crate).
This was homemade from a "kit" which was the arbor saw table and vise (unfortunately I don't know the manufacturer). Completely restored, NEW 1/4 HP motor, inline on/off switch, near-new belt, splash shield, and all new wiring. On a sturdy plywood base. Good blade with plenty of life left, original vise, sheet metal coolant pan, and 8" backing plate on the buffer end. NEW 8" convex buffer head with leather cover. You can put just about anything that polishes, buffs, and sands on this, a flat rubber backed polishing head, flat aluminum head for backing silicon carbide and diamond disks. See Rock's Lapidary for a selection of heads to get you started. You should probably bolt or screw this to your bench or table, you usually can't apply enough force to polish anything on the convex head if it isn't bolted down.
Completely restored, very good 1/3 HP motor CHECK (which is massive overkill, but it will probably turn 100 lbs. of rocks!), inline on/off switch, new belt (CHECK), all new wiring and a plywood body. One worn bearing has been replaced, and I recut the rollers for a smoother action. The base is on a rubber mat to help cut down on noise and stop the machine from walking across the floor :) The barrel is a Covington 40 lb. capacity barrel, which retails for around $355. I have completely refurnished the barrel, so it works as well as a new barrel. Basically this is priced for a little more than a used barrel in excellent condition is worth. Pickup at the shop ONLY, it would be insanely expensive to ship.
This is the machine you need to rough out cabochons and other smaller pieces. After this you would move on to a sander and polisher. It has been completely restored, NEW 1/4 HP motor, on/off switch, new heavy duty cogged belt, all new wiring, lightly used 80 & a good 200 grit silicon carbide wheels, new custom aluminum pan (it will not rust) by me :) Also a couple neoprene rubber spray guards to cut down on the mist. The plywood base has been over-engineered (can't break it with a sledgehammer). The water system is the drip type and is all new parts, new inlet valves and tubing, and drain on the pan, just hook it up to a water supply & turn it on. You need a bucket or container set above the level of the pan that has a drain fitting at the bottom. You can get a plastic "barb" fitting to fit the supply line at any hardware store, then drill or cut out a hole in the bottom or side of the container barely larger than the fitting and shove that sucker in there (use an adhesive sealant to make it watertight, a small tube is all you need). Then push the tubing onto the barb for a watertight fit, and set another bucket on the floor and run the drain hose to it. The valves are very sensitive so you need to open them only a fraction of a turn to get adequate water on the wheels, and make very fine adjustments to keep down the mist.
Since it is aluminum there's no need to empty the pan until you get a significant amount of sludge in it. The hoods are removable for easy access to the wheels. I recommend an anti-corrosion additive such as Lube-Cool or a wetting agent such as Crystalcut (which doesn't have an anti-rust additive AFAIK but it isn't necessary for this machine, and is what I use on my Titan arbor). Pickup at the shop ONLY, it would be insanely expensive to ship.
This is the machine you need buff and polish rock, jewelry, metal, etc. It came to me as a "Frankenarbor", it looked like Dr. Frankenstein cobbled it together with parts leftover from the monster :) I threw away the unnecessary junk, kept what looks like a new felt wheel, refurbished everything, and I will throw in the well-used muslin buffing wheels, all the washers etc. that came with it (not that I would know what to do with them, maybe you can find a use). Has a 6" convex polishing head with a leather cover, in decent condition. I use these heads all the time for polishing cabochons, slabs, flat cut specimens, etc. 8" convex or flat polishing heads can be purchased from Rock's Lapidary. Craftsman sleeve bearings (they are not self-lubricating, so get a spray can of lithium grease and shoot it on them periodically). Completely rebuilt on a new plywood base. Insanely overpowered 1/3 HP motor, off of one of my trim saws so it is in perfect working order (I ran out of motors for all this equipment LOL). New wiring, inline on/off switch, good belt.
The wheels rotate much slower than a standard arbor, so you can get really good polishing action on the convex head. You MUST bolt or screw this to your bench or table, you can't apply enough force to polish anything on the convex head if it isn't bolted down (the manufacturers conveniently leave this part out so they don't scare off people who can't use a drill and a wrench, or buy bolts at the hardware store). Pickup at the shop, or I can ship this USPS parcel post or UPS, your choice (count on at least $75 postage + materials for a crate).
A rant about polishing compound: Use genuine "optical grade" cerium oxide polishing powder with this if you want a "liquid" mirror polish. Other polishing compounds also work but never do as good a job. Personally I demand the best results and I can directly compare pieces I polished with cheaper compound years ago to ones done with genuine optical grade cerium, and the difference is very noticeable. Steer clear of anything described as "optical cerium" in the $15-$20/lb. range! It is either low grade ceruim oxide or worse yet titanium oxide being passed off as ceruim (as I was told by a wholesale supplier to the silicon chip industry, apparently a common tactic on Ebay and Amazon). It is suitable only for tumbling and flat lapping (and still doesn't do as good a job). I suggest "Super Cerium", it's what I use, and I trust no one except for the primary suppliers, there are resellers claiming theirs is super cerium but it's too cheap to be the real deal. Graves Lapidary sells it to the faceteing crowd for $55/lb. (who insist on a superb polish, as you might imagine), and I only use theirs (I called and they told me that it's genuine optical grade, and I believe them). The "real name" is "Universal Photonics 2 micron mesh Super CE-RITE", also known as "French Cerium", and costs a couple thousand $ for a 44 lb. bucket (really, no kidding). Therefore if you aren't paying around $50-$65 for a lb. then it isn't the genuine stuff (or they are losing a ton of money on it, which I doubt anyone would do). You can also get ripped off for over $100/lb so be careful and shop around. Because it is so effective, you need VERY little to polish a batch of pieces (don't paint the wheel white with it or you're just wasting it, and use way more water than polish). A tablespoon or two in 1/2 cup of water is a good place to start. A pound lasts me a couple years and I polish at least 400 pieces and cabochons every year.
This is a rare bird by "Le Bourget", I can find virtually no information about them, except that they look like almost identical knockoffs of an older model Covington 10" lap, which has a small motor attached to the bottom of the pan. Maybe they were made in France :) The current Covington model which uses a different system but a very similar pan and base retails for about $330. This lap has one smooth aluminum pan, with a NEW Covington polishing pad, and the original bumper ring. It was in superb condition so I did virtually nothing to it other than replace the outdated (read: fire hazard) cord, and the worn out support pads. The pads were probably never available separately, so I adhered to the original design which used custom made high-density felt pad inserts on delrin plastic supports. The flat pan is best suited for the fine grit stage (500 or 600 grit silicon carbide (or 550F which is cheaper but basically the same thing)). You can use the meduim stage 120/220 or 240 grit but it probably won't be as effective as with a grooved pan. Apparently this brand never had a grooved pan (I can't find any trace of one), so I don't know whether or not it was intended for the coarse (60/90 or 90 grit), or medium grit stages. Many people do use smooth pans for these however. Anyway don't buy it by the pound, you can get it much cheaper in bulk (Kingsley North has decent prices).
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